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Book review: Apron Strings, by Jan Wong

Jan Wong, Apron Strings: Navigating Food and Family in France, Italy, and China (Fredericton, NB, Goose Lane Editions, 2017). 380pp. index. ISBN 978-0-86492-961-7. Also available as EPUB and Kindle. Jan Wong, a journalist of long standing, has taken a trip with her younger son, Sam. They stayed in specific households in France, Italy, and China, in order to see and describe the home cooking of those countries. (Sam, in his early twenties, has cooking cred and wants to become a chef.) The result is this fascinating book. In this bookyou learn how households in these three countries differ or are the same. How they prepare and eat their food. And how meticulously Jan Wong takes notes on everything, from the killing of a chicken to the way family meals are conducted (in France and Italy both, dinner—even a four-course one—starts at 8 on the dot).  She must have a terrific shorthand technique, because she doesn't miss a trick, whether she's describing family …

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